*Must Have* A PWM, (pulse width modulator), this creates a pulsing DC that is said to improve the HHO Gas out put, and reduce the current required to do it. (Cost for a 30 amp unit around $50.00)
A word about amperage:
1 Pulling to many amps from your car will result in poor fuel usage.
2 Pulling to many amps will cause your other car’s systems not to work. Example radio, air conditioning
3 Pulling too many amps will burn out your fuses
4 Pulling to many amps will cause your HHO system to create extra heat. Resulting in less gas production, and possible boiling of your water.
A fuse holder and fuse protect both your cars electrical system, and the HHO system. They cost about $5 for the holder, and $1 for a fuse, (the size fuse will depend on the size wire you run, and that will depend on the amps your system draws. 15 or 20 amps will be big enough for my model #1010. If you use a 15 amp fuse you can wire the system with 14 gauge wire, if you use a 20 amp fuse, you need to use 12 gauge wire. (Cost $6 for both) My full kits include 15amp fuse and inline fuse holder.
A 20 amp 12 volt relay, this will serve to switch the HHO Gen. on and off, you can operate this relay from your ignition switch. This way the Gen. will only be on when the ignition is turned on. My full kits come with a 30amp relay.
An Ox sensor extension this moves the Ox sensor back about 3/4" so it will not see the extra Ox that's coming from the HHO, and there by prevent your check engine light from coming on because of a rich/lean condition, and more importantly from masking an actual problem with the engine. (Cost $5) You will need this if you have a newer car/truck with an on board computer, and EFI, (Electronic Fuel Injection). Older cars with carburetors and Diesel don't need this. My full kits include this.
I personally also have a separate amp meter that just monitors the HHO Cell/Cells so I know how things are going out there under the hood:-) (cost $15 to $25)
